Pork Loin in Hungarian Sauce

In a wide pot, heat a tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat and sauté the chopped onion (about 3-4 minutes, until softened and lightly golden). Move the onion to the side of the pot. Add the remaining two tablespoons of olive oil, increase the heat to high, and sear the pork loin slices in batches — about 2-3 minutes per side, until golden brown. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer each seared batch to a bowl or plate.

After searing the last batch of meat, remove it from the pot — the onion and rendered fat with the browned bits should remain at the bottom. Over medium heat, add the tomato paste directly to the bottom of the pot with the onion and sauté for about 1 minute, stirring constantly and scraping up the dark bits from the bottom (this is the fond — full of flavor). The paste should darken slightly — this will remove its raw, acidic taste and add depth to the sauce. Then, return all the meat to the pot and mix with the onion and tomato paste.

Pour in the hot broth (or bouillon) and soy sauce. Season with sweet and hot paprika, wild garlic, bay leaves, and allspice berries. Stir, cover with a lid, and reduce the heat to low. Braise for about 1 hour and 20 minutes. The meat is ready when it easily pulls apart with a fork. During braising, check once or twice to see if the liquid has evaporated too much — if so, add a little broth.

In a separate pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or whisk. The roux should lightly brown and develop a nutty aroma — it should not be white or burnt. Transfer the roux to the pot with the meat, mix thoroughly with the sauce, and bring to a boil. Cook for another 3-5 minutes over low heat, until the sauce thickens to the desired consistency. Taste and season with salt and pepper to taste.